Introduction to Daojiao Crab Sauce
Daojiao Crab Sauce, also known as “Peimei Sauce” in the local community, is a time-honored and widely spread sauce in Daojiao. To talk about this sauce, we must first start with its raw material - the crab.
The crab species called “Peimei” is a member of the large crab family, but compared to noble species such as the Hairy Crab and Golden Crab, it is only a “low-class” citizen in the crab family. It can be found everywhere in rivers and rice fields, especially along the mud banks and rice fields in the Pearl River Delta, south of the Yangtze River. In particular, in Daojiao – a land of fish and rice crisscrossed with water networks – it thrives remarkably (there are distinctions between red and white claws). Peimei carries on the honorary role of the “water scavenger” in the crab family, feeding on decomposing substances in water. However, because it is an amphibious animal, it likes to dig holes on the riverbank and field edges for its dwelling, which causes damage to the riverbank. Furthermore, it enjoys nibbling on tender rice seedlings and leaves, becoming a pest in rice paddies. Therefore, it is not excessive to classify it as a harmful animal. But in the eyes of gourmets, it is a delicacy full of local flavor. “In January, Peimei; In February, crab” – Peimei is particularly fattened during this season.
There are several ways to eat Peimei in Daojiao, including Peimei steamed with garlic and fermented soybeans, Peimei baked with ginger and scallion, Peimei deep-fried until crispy, and Peimei porridge. Peimei porridge is another famous porridge in Daojiao, using Peimei as the main ingredient, combined with stir-fried peanuts, oily carrots, scallions, and other ingredients. The taste is beyond description. In fact, this dish is a traditional food therapy for liver disease: Peimei is a very effective medicine for liver disease. In the past, there was a scarcity of medicines, so people with jaundice hepatitis could use raw Peimei and fresh yellow-flowered vegetables to grind into a sauce and drink it with boiling water, which was very effective. Using Peimei to cook porridge also has a detoxifying and liver protecting effect. Children used to eat this porridge when they had sores or rashes.
In fact, in Daojiao, Peimei's most popular dish is a seasoning made from it - Peimei Sauce (known as "Peimei Xianpa" in Daojiao or simply "Xianpa"; the older generation call it "Peimei Jie").
Peimei Sauce has another function: Overseas Chinese, Hong Kong and Macao compatriots will inevitably find a few bottles of Peimei Sauce as a souvenir when they return to their hometowns, because everyone says that it has the miraculous effect of curing discomfort from living in a new place (perhaps due to homesickness). Postpartum women also use Peimei Sauce to supplement their diet, which can speed up their recovery and health.
The Origin of Daojiao Crab Sauce
More than two hundred years ago, there was a cultural figure named Lai Hongxi (1770-1850), who taught and lived in Daojiao. In his work "Ten Poems on Daojiao Bamboo Branch," he praised Peimei Sauce to an unprecedented level. "Ordinary Peimei sauce, surpasses the fragrant of crabs, shrimp, frogs, and dry scallops." (See Lai Hongxi's "Hongmian Guan Poetry Extracts", Volume 2). This sentence not only highly praises the delicious taste of Peimei Sauce, but also indicates that Peimei Sauce was already a popular folk sauce in Daojiao more than 200 years ago.
The Making of Daojiao Crab Sauce
The authentic method of making Peimei Sauce is as follows. First, clean the Peimei crab, remove the shell, gills, intestines, claws, and feet. Then, add salt (about 1:0.2) and use a pestle to grind it in a sand basin. Next, use a small stone mill to process it into a powder-like sauce, add some wine, and then sprinkle (or mix in) a layer of stir-fried glutinous rice on top. Seal the mouth of the jar, and preferably let it sun-dry for a few weeks in a place with sunlight, allowing it to ferment gradually. The finished Peimei Sauce is dark black; good-quality Peimei Sauce is fragrant without any fishy odor, smooth without any gritty sensation, and is a top-grade sauce. In addition, it inherits the liver-protecting function of the Peimei crab. When eating Peimei Xianpa, it has a very good protective effect on liver function and can be regarded as a liver-protecting health product. Daojiao people use Peimei Sauce to make two unique and famous dishes: steamed pork with Peimei Sauce (only semi-fat and semi-lean pork is best for this dish, and you should steam it twice to remove the oil from the fatty pork) and stir-fried green beans with Peimei Sauce (the green beans are fresh, crisp, and have a greenish sheen, which is due to the alkaline substances in Peimei).
